Pork shoulder roast with garlic, citrus, and herbs

When reading a Texas community cookbook from the late 1950s, I came across an herbed pork roast studded with garlic, rosemary, and citrus. Often when I go through mid-century cookbooks, I’m charmed by how ancient-fashioned the recipes feel, but this dish sounded like someleang you'd find on the table nowadays.

Now, my family normally turns to beef when there’s a need to feed a few people, and will slowly cook chuck roast or brisket; I do the same. One of my . . .

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